Eastern Nave


Western Nave

Fire Watchers Memorial
Great West Window

North Choir Aisle

Chichele Tomb
Bible Windows
Northeast Transept

Martyrdom

Altar of the Sword's Point
Deans' Chapel
Stairs to Crypt

Eastern Nave

Pulpit
Altar
Compass Rose

Western Crypt (North Aisle)

Ch. of Holy Innocents
St Nicholas Ch.
St Mary Magdalene Ch.

Eastern Crypt

Watching Chamber
"Transport"
Jesus Chapel

Western Crypt (South Aisle)

Huguenot Chapel
Our Lady Undercroft
St Gabriel Chapel

Pulpitum Steps

Royal Window
Bell Harry
Great South Window

Trinity Chapel North

Opus Alexandrinum
Miracle Windows
Henry IV Tomb
Becket Shrine

Choir

Parclose Screen
Archbishop's Throne St Augustine's Chair

Trinity Chapel South

Corona Chapel
Black Prince Miracle Windows

South Choir Aisle

St Anselm's Chapel
Bossanyi Windows Southeast Transept

Southwest Transept

Stairs from Crypt
Pilgrims' Tunnel
South Door exit

Great Cloister

Heraldic shields
South, East, North & West panes Cloister Garth

Chapter House

Wagon Vault
Archbishop's Throne Historical Stained Glass

What’s here?

MapA prominent feature at the eastern end of the Nave is the late-Victorian Pulpit. The area immediately in front of the altar, here enclosed on either side by wrought-iron work, is known as the Sanctuary and this is where you will find the Compass Rose and the Altar of the Holy Cross. The last of several monuments on the wall of the North aisle is the intriguing Elizabethan memorial to Sir James Hales.

Orientation. As you approach from the western end of the Nave, the pulpit is to your left on the north side. The Sanctuary, with the Compass Rose and altar, is ahead of you, just in front of the steps leading up to the Pulpitum screen. Continuing along the north aisle of the Nave, the Hales Memorial is the last monument on the left.

The Compass Rose (1988)

On the floor of the sanctuary is the emblem of The Compass Rose, which signifies, by showing all points of the compass, that the Cathedral is the Mother Church of the Anglican Christian Faith throughout the World. This is where all the Anglican Bishops of the World gather at the time of each Lambeth Conference (held approximately every 10 years). The emblem bears a Greek inscription, which translates: “The Truth Shall Make You Free” – (John Ch. 8, v. 32). It was designed by Giles Blomfield of Truro and installed at the time of the Lambeth Conference in 1988. The first Lambeth Conference was held in 1867 and the most recent, the fifteenth, in Canterbury, in July/August 2022.

The Hales Memorial (c.1597)

There are several military monuments along both sides of the Nave but the most intriguing of them all is connected with a forgotten event that has been described by some historians as as the greatest naval disaster in English history. The monument is a memorial to Sir James Hales (d.1589), his wife Alice and son Cheney.

Sir James was a soldier and treasurer to the Portugal Expedition (also known as the English Armada or Contra Armada) of 1589. The top part of the monument features a bas-relief sculpture showing Sir James being buried at sea. The English Armada was Elizabeth I’s attempt to capitalise on the failure of the Spanish Armada a year earlier. Despite the losses it had suffered around the coast of the British Isles in 1588, Spain remained the dominant naval force, and the Spanish Empire (the Iberian Union of Portugal and Spain 1580-1640), under Philip II of Spain controlled the sea routes and lucrative trade between Europe and Spanish/Portuguese territories in the Caribbean and the Americas.

The expedition, led by Sir Francis Drake and General Sir John Norreys, spectacularly failed to accomplish any of its objectives. The joint English/Dutch fleet of 150 warships and armed merchantmen that sailed from Plymouth on 15th April 1589, limped home only three months later, having lost at least a quarter of its ships. Around half of the 23,000 men who set sail were killed, injured or died of disease. Sir James himself died during the return journey and was buried at sea in full armour, as depicted on the monument.

Sir James was the grandson of another Sir James Hales (1500-1554) an influential judge, avowed Protestant and adviser to Archbishop Thomas Cranmer who was imprisoned during the reign of Queen Mary and forced to convert to Catholicism; an experience that so disturbed his mind that he committed suicide by drowning in the River Stour. Though hard to see from floor level, the painted backdrop of the central panel of the monument depicts the Stour at Thanington where the drowning occurred.

The Hales monument was commissioned by Sir James’ friend Richard Lee. In his will, Sir James bequeathed to his “good friend” Richard Lee, all his books, pictures and maps, and excused him all money he owed him. Richard Lee subsequently married Sir James’ widow, Lady Alice Hales, and moved to the Hales manor house, known as “The Dungeon” (Dane John) on the edge of Canterbury. Shortly after Lady Alice’s death in 1592, Lee became MP for Canterbury in 1593 and, in 1600, he was knighted and became ambassador to Russia.

Lady Alice (d.1592) is shown in the central panel, kneeling at a prie-dieu (prayer desk) and, in the bottom panel, their son Cheney Hales (d.1596) also at prayer.

Footnote. Notice that the two figures at prayer face west when, by convention, they normally face east. It is likely that the memorial was originally installed on a south wall, where it would have faced conventionally east. St Michael’s (The Buffs’) Chapel has been suggested, though it would be a tight fit!

Dean Stanley window (c1885)

This often overlooked window, in the northeast corner of the nave, is by Clayton and Bell and was installed in memory of Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, Dean of Westminster, formerly a Canon Residentiary at Canterbury, who died in 1881.

The window celebrates the lives of the archbishops and priors who, in the 10th and 11th centuries, were involved in the building of the second Saxon cathedral and its Norman replacement. The panels are arranged in pairs – the upper part depicting the individual and below that, the event that is commemorated.

Archbishop Odo (942/959) and the rebuilding of the second Saxon Cathedral. When the Cathedral was almost complete, except for the roof, a storm arose. In response to prayers, God sent the sun to shine on the Cathedral, while, all around, it poured with rain. The Cathedral was saved from ruin.

Archbishop Stigand (1052/1070) This panel shows the last Saxon archbishop. In 1067, the year after the Conquest, the entire Cathedral burnt down. In 1068 William the Conqueror deprived Stigand of the archbishopric and appointed Lanfranc to succeed him.

Archbishop Lanfranc (1070/1089), was the first Norman Archbishop. Lanfranc presided over the rebuilding of the Cathedral in Norman/Romanesque style, between 1071 and 1086.

Prior Ernulf (1096/1107). Lanfranc’s Norman cathedral was extended eastwards during the time of Archbishop Anselm (1093/1109). When Anselm was exiled, Prior Ernulf took charge of the building of a magnificent new Choir and extended Crypt beneath it, though his successor, Prior Conrad, took much of the credit for its lavish furnishings. Barely 50 years after its consecration, on the 5th September 1174, the magnificent Choir was destroyed by another great fire, though the Crypt escaped serious damage.

Where next?

Next Stop Continue along the north aisle of the Nave behind the pulpit and take the steps up and down (six of each) into the X Martyrdom.

For step free access to the Martyrdom, follow the south aisle of the Nave into the Southwest Transept, and use the pilgrims’ tunnel, on the left.